Palmerston,Cook Islands

We arrived at Palmerston at 09.30 this morning.A picture book tropical Island.

There is a big circular reef with other islands included in the reef,surrounding a central lagoon.Below is a model of the complex, from the school on the Island.Palmerston is the island at the lowest point of the photo.The other islands are all uninhabited,although the small isle to the right of Palmerston in the photo used to be a leper colony.

And a model of the island itself

But first we had a damp zodiac journey from the ship to shore through a narrow channel in the reef,damp because a brisk wind raised  across sea and the channel had some tight turns,necessitating a local to pilot the boat into the lagoon.We were welcomed with singing and dancing and a tour round the village.

Unusally the singing was in English,the national language of this island,all other islands in the Cook islands use Maori,but therein lies the tale.

 Captain Cook landed on the deserted Palmerston island in 1777 and named after Viscount Palmerston the then Lord of the Admiralty.In 1863 William Marsters arrived on the island with two local wives a friend and his female partner.Originally a ships carpenter,he had gone to Australia in a gold rush,come away with two pots of gold and so we were told the gold is still in its pots on the island.The friend soon left so William took the lady as his third wife and sired 23 children.He allocated a part of the island to each wife and her children and this division survives to this day.In 1891 the British government annexed the island but granted William a 21 year lease.This was later renewed up until 1954 when the family was granted ownership of the island.It is now administered by the Cook Islands in association with New Zealand.There are only about 36 people left on the island and this,we were told,would decrease to the 20s over the next few months.There is a main road

But no tar in sight!The lagoon is 7 miles across and the total area of all the islets around the lagoon is only 1 sq mile.

Still idyllic for a day or two.Although Elizabeth did not fancy living there.

Inevitably the island relies upon support from abroad to develop any services,the health centre is a nurse who is there sometimes !

There are chickens and pigs but the islanders diet is largely fish, coconuts and other vegetables grown on the island.The bird was a pet,but I am not sure what species it is.

Plenty of other attractive sights

There is a school with two teachers but only 11 children ,how long can the population survive there??